What are the five best things to see and do in Wine Country?
Napa Valley is practically synonymous with wine tastings, and for good reason, too. There are more Napa wineries, vineyards and wine bars than you can shake a stick at. But, we think there’s a lot more to Napa Valley than vino (even though we feel obligated to include wine tastings on our list). Hike up Mount St. Helena, visit Old Faithful Geyser of California and Oxbow Public Market. Top it off with a show at the newly renovated Napa Valley Opera House.
1. Broke, ill and newly married, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned on the slopes of this extinct volcano in 1880. Bring a copy of The Silverado Squatters, Stevenson’s travel memoir describing those two memorable months, and hike to the nearby Silverado Mine. The five-mile hike up Mount St. Helena isn’t easy, but is certainly worth the view from the top; on clear days, you might be able to see Mount Shasta, which is 192 miles away. The trail begins in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and takes you through the forest at first, and then a steep uphill climb over rock, trees and bushes.
2. Another outdoor spectacle worth experiencing is the Old Faithful Geyser of California, one of only three regularly erupting geysers in the world. Nearly every half-hour — for about three minutes each time — a towering plume ascends from the source, unless an earthquake disrupts the geyser’s timing. An underground river boils up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, causing vapor and steam to escape to heights of 60 to 100 feet.
3. You simply can’t come to Wine Country without visiting the numerous wineries and vineyards. You’ll find everything from large wineries with popular tasting rooms to small, by-appointment-only tasting facilities.
4. After a day of vineyard hopping, you’ll no doubt be exhausted — and hungry. If you’re looking for more of a DIY dinner option, head to Oxbow Public Market, a one-stop artisanal food and wine shop located in Napa’s up-and coming Oxbow District. Grab a cup of made-to-order coffee from San Francisco’s own Ritual Coffee Roasters, pick up a bottle of local wine from Oxbow Wine Merchant, grab some fresh-baked bread at The Model Bakery and some house cured meats at The Fatted Calf. You’ll also find an outpost of Gott’s Roadside for burgers and garlic fries, while newly shucked oysters can be found at Hog Island Oyster Company (locals go on Tuesday when they’re $1). For dessert, there’s Kara’s Cupcakes. Whatever you grab, you can be assured it’ll be local, and tasty.
5. The Napa Valley Opera House was built in 1879 as one of the first “respectable” venues west of the Mississippi river. The building went dark in 1914 and was finally renovated and reopened to the public in 2002 after being restored to its former splendor. The show schedule includes everything from jazz and classical concerts to theater and dance productions.
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Honeymooners or couples just looking for a getaway frequent Wine Country, and it’s easy to see why. We can’t think of anything more romantic than trying dozens of different wines in lush California. Visit the oldest winery in Napa, Beringer, or one of the most all-around fantastic, Rubicon. Stay at the serene Auberge du Soleil, get brunch at Bouchon and check out Ca’ Toga Art Gallery to see Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori’s work.
1. Beringer has welcomed guests since 1934, making it the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. The comprehensive tours include a walk through hand-dug, aging tunnels, as well as informative talks about how wine is made and aged - followed, of course, by wine tasting.
2. If you only take one winery tour with your special someone while visiting Napa, make it Rubicon. The knowledgeable and engaging tour guides will fill you in on how Francis Ford Coppola came to own this winery, and how he brought it full circle. It’s the kind of story that makes movie magic, but this vineyard has no Hollywood flash. While you can easily envision Coppola sitting at one of the outside tables puffing on a cigar, the vineyard, which looks like it was transported from Italy, is where the famous director quietly raised his family outside of the spotlight, and where he and his wife still reside. You may also be surprised by how good the wines are, particularly the Rutherford Edizione Pennino Zinfandel (the label has a picture of Italy and the Statue of Liberty, a homage to Francis’ grandfather) and the Cask cabernet sauvignon, a tribute to the stylized cabernets of the previous owner.
3. This sun-drenched sanctuary of Auberge du Soleil is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. What once began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, flat-screen TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
4. If you can’t get into The French Laundry, try Thomas Keller’s French bistro Bouchon — a more casual but no less romantic substitute. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, the fare is seasonal, but Bouchon maintains a decidedly bistro flavor, right down to the pommes frites, chalkboard specials and newspaper rack by the nickel bar. You can’t go wrong with any of the fresh seafood, and the comfort dishes such as slow-braised pork short ribs and croque madame are especially enjoyable. Desserts include pot de crème and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. Be sure to stop by the next-door Bouchon Bakery because the éclairs and macarons are spectacular. Take a walk after brunch and peruse the shops, galleries, and, of course, the tastings. A stroll in Napa Valley is as quaint and intimate as it gets.
5. See the works of Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori, which include ceramics, tiles, paintings, sculptures and furniture in Neo-Classical and Baroque styles at Ca’ Toga Art Gallery.
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Even though your kids aren’t of age to enjoy the impeccably crafted wine offered at every turn in Wine Country, you can still bring them; there are some wonderful attractions with the whole family in mind. Visit the original Jelly Belly factory and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, or admire nature at the Petrified Forest, Safari West tour or from afar on the Napa Valley Train.
1. Some 3 million years ago, a volcanic eruption turned a forest of giant redwoods into solid quartz and stone — now called the Petrified Forest. Discovered in 1857, these preserved trees offer insight into geological formations and give visitors a glimpse of a prehistoric world. You can also take a guided meadow walk to learn more about the volcanic activity, among oak, douglas fir, madrone and manzanita trees, wildflowers and views of Mount St. Helena. In 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his visit here in his book, The Silverado Squatters.
2. California is transformed into Africa on the Safari West tour, which includes an authentic safari jeep tour of the wildlife preserve ending in an African-style oasis. Your kids will gawk at 600 animals such as giraffes and zebras on this three-hour long ride in what’s called the Sonoma Serengeti.
3. Hop aboard one of the 1952 Vista Dome vintage railcars on the Napa Valley Train for a 36-mile tour of wineries in five towns including Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena. The train was designed in the 1860s to expose people to Calistoga, and much of the route is the same today. Be sure to check out family fun nights, held twice a month. For the price of a regular dinner package, you can eat an intimate meal in a separate dining car while your kids enjoy games, movies and a kid’s menu in a kids-only train car under supervision.
4. The Jelly Belly factory is located just 20 minutes outside of Napa Valley. Take a free, 40-minute tour to learn about what it takes to create the legendary Jelly Belly bean as well as 150 other sweet treats.
5. Snoopy and the rest of the peanuts gang were conjured up in Sonoma, so it makes sense that the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Snoopy Gallery’s Gift Shop stands there today. Schulz called Sonoma home for forty years, but he opened the museum to showcase his legendary comics turned movies and merchandise in 2002 following the strip’s 50th anniversary. For any kids that are familiar with the loveable beagle and his charming, self-deprecating owner Charlie Brown, this cartoon museum and gift shop will be a special treat.
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Napa Valley is practically synonymous with wine tastings, and for good reason, too. There are more Napa wineries, vineyards and wine bars than you can shake a stick at. But, we think there’s a lot more to Napa Valley than vino (even though we feel obligated to include wine tastings on our list). Hike up Mount St. Helena, visit Old Faithful Geyser of California and Oxbow Public Market. Top it off with a show at the newly renovated Napa Valley Opera House.
1. Broke, ill and newly married, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned on the slopes of this extinct volcano in 1880. Bring a copy of The Silverado Squatters, Stevenson’s travel memoir describing those two memorable months, and hike to the nearby Silverado Mine. The five-mile hike up Mount St. Helena isn’t easy, but is certainly worth the view from the top; on clear days, you might be able to see Mount Shasta, which is 192 miles away. The trail begins in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and takes you through the forest at first, and then a steep uphill climb over rock, trees and bushes.
2. Another outdoor spectacle worth experiencing is the Old Faithful Geyser of California, one of only three regularly erupting geysers in the world. Nearly every half-hour — for about three minutes each time — a towering plume ascends from the source, unless an earthquake disrupts the geyser’s timing. An underground river boils up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, causing vapor and steam to escape to heights of 60 to 100 feet.
3. You simply can’t come to Wine Country without visiting the numerous wineries and vineyards. You’ll find everything from large wineries with popular tasting rooms to small, by-appointment-only tasting facilities.
4. After a day of vineyard hopping, you’ll no doubt be exhausted — and hungry. If you’re looking for more of a DIY dinner option, head to Oxbow Public Market, a one-stop artisanal food and wine shop located in Napa’s up-and coming Oxbow District. Grab a cup of made-to-order coffee from San Francisco’s own Ritual Coffee Roasters, pick up a bottle of local wine from Oxbow Wine Merchant, grab some fresh-baked bread at The Model Bakery and some house cured meats at The Fatted Calf. You’ll also find an outpost of Gott’s Roadside for burgers and garlic fries, while newly shucked oysters can be found at Hog Island Oyster Company (locals go on Tuesday when they’re $1). For dessert, there’s Kara’s Cupcakes. Whatever you grab, you can be assured it’ll be local, and tasty.
5. The Napa Valley Opera House was built in 1879 as one of the first “respectable” venues west of the Mississippi river. The building went dark in 1914 and was finally renovated and reopened to the public in 2002 after being restored to its former splendor. The show schedule includes everything from jazz and classical concerts to theater and dance productions.
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Wine Country has what it takes to be one of the most romantic getaways in the U.S.: breathtaking views of hills and valleys, seemingly endless wine lists and spectacular fine dining. In fact, many eateries have all three. In St. Helena, there’s The Restaurant at Meadowood and Terra; Auberge Du Soleil in Rutherford; Cyrus in Healdsburg; and The French Laundry in Yountville.
1. Remaining true to Meadowood’s natural, serene setting, The Restaurant at Meadowood, concentrates on the purity of regional flavors, using several ingredients from the resort’s onsite garden. The result is a menu replete with fresh, delectable choices. From the extensive list of 1,100 wines, sommelier Rom Toulon assists in pairing varietals to fully complement the essence of each dish. A modern dining room with stone fireplaces, white wainscoting and rows of windows revealing the beautiful grounds adds to the magical experience.
2. Chef and owner Hiro Sone has been wowing diners at Terra, his cozy, intimate Napa Valley restaurant, since 1988. Set one block off the main drag on Railroad Avenue in St. Helena, Terra is located in a charming, old stone building, rustically finished with vintage red-tiled floors, exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings. The food is spectacular — a successful blend of flavors from Italy, France and Asia. With gracious hospitality and warmth, the staff at Terra makes you feel like you’re dining at home.
3. French-born San Francisco restaurateur Claude Rouas set out to create a Provence-like destination restaurant in northern California when he opened Auberge du Soleil in 1981. Diners liked it so much they demanded overnight accommodations — and received them four years later. The seasonal French-California menu features artisanal ingredients and products from local farms. If you’re touring the valley by car, consider a lunch stop where you can enjoy the views from the terrace.
4. Where better to indulge in life’s luxuries than at Cyrus, an elegant wine country eatery located off the lobby of the grand Les Mars Hotel? Leather banquettes, a cloister ceiling and a plethora of freshly cut flowers are just some of the intimate touches that make an evening at Cyrus a sybaritic affair. The prix fixe menu of three, four or five courses changes daily, but often includes such scrumptious dishes as roasted porcini risotto and rabbit ballotine, and a terrine of foie gras with rhubarb and sassafrass. The wine list of more than 600-bottles offers a perfect accompaniment to any dish.
5. At this former French steam laundry, chef Thomas Keller has raised the standard for fine dining in America with his restaurant, The French Laundry. While the country locale — a circa-1900 rock and timber cottage — makes you feel at home, tables topped with Limoges china, crystal stemware and floor-length linens, set the tone for the nine-course French or vegetarian tasting menus that change daily but always rely on seasonal produce and organic meats. Reservations are taken two months in advance, so be prepared if you’re hoping to snag a table at this perennially outstanding American classic.
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Typically, you won’t see rain from the middle of May to November. But if you’re staying near the coast, it’s best to bring airy clothes for hot temperatures and layers for when it cools down at nighttime. December and January are undoubtedly the worst months to visit, as they’re cold which means the scenery isn’t nearly as beautiful and some of the area’s restaurants even close during these months. Come summer and fall, however, prepare yourself for temperatures up to 100 degrees.
It’s important to make sure there’s extra room in your suitcase - or to bring an entirely separate empty suitcase - for the wine you’ll inevitably want to take with you. If you decide not to take this route, many of the wineries will ship you the wines that you purchase.
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Forbes Inspector answered a question:
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Wine Country has what it takes to be one of the most romantic getaways in the U.S.: breathtaking views of hills and valleys, seemingly endless wine lists and spectacular fine dining. In fact, many eateries have all three. In St. Helena, there’s The Restaurant at Meadowood and Terra; Auberge Du Soleil in Rutherford; Cyrus in Healdsburg; and The French Laundry in Yountville.
1. Remaining true to Meadowood’s natural, serene setting, The Restaurant at Meadowood, concentrates on the purity of regional flavors, using several ingredients from the resort’s onsite garden. The result is a menu replete with fresh, delectable choices. From the extensive list of 1,100 wines, sommelier Rom Toulon assists in pairing varietals to fully complement the essence of each dish. A modern dining room with stone fireplaces, white wainscoting and rows of windows revealing the beautiful grounds adds to the magical experience.
2. Chef and owner Hiro Sone has been wowing diners at Terra, his cozy, intimate Napa Valley restaurant, since 1988. Set one block off the main drag on Railroad Avenue in St. Helena, Terra is located in a charming, old stone building, rustically finished with vintage red-tiled floors, exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings. The food is spectacular — a successful blend of flavors from Italy, France and Asia. With gracious hospitality and warmth, the staff at Terra makes you feel like you’re dining at home.
3. French-born San Francisco restaurateur Claude Rouas set out to create a Provence-like destination restaurant in northern California when he opened Auberge du Soleil in 1981. Diners liked it so much they demanded overnight accommodations — and received them four years later. The seasonal French-California menu features artisanal ingredients and products from local farms. If you’re touring the valley by car, consider a lunch stop where you can enjoy the views from the terrace.
4. Where better to indulge in life’s luxuries than at Cyrus, an elegant wine country eatery located off the lobby of the grand Les Mars Hotel? Leather banquettes, a cloister ceiling and a plethora of freshly cut flowers are just some of the intimate touches that make an evening at Cyrus a sybaritic affair. The prix fixe menu of three, four or five courses changes daily, but often includes such scrumptious dishes as roasted porcini risotto and rabbit ballotine, and a terrine of foie gras with rhubarb and sassafrass. The wine list of more than 600-bottles offers a perfect accompaniment to any dish.
5. At this former French steam laundry, chef Thomas Keller has raised the standard for fine dining in America with his restaurant, The French Laundry. While the country locale — a circa-1900 rock and timber cottage — makes you feel at home, tables topped with Limoges china, crystal stemware and floor-length linens, set the tone for the nine-course French or vegetarian tasting menus that change daily but always rely on seasonal produce and organic meats. Reservations are taken two months in advance, so be prepared if you’re hoping to snag a table at this perennially outstanding American classic.
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Calistoga Ranch offers a quiet retreat after a day spent exploring local vineyards. Each room is housed in a free-standing lodge, decorated using natural materials with fireplaces, plush beds topped with down duvets and private outdoor showers. The onsite restaurant has a hearty American menu created by chef Erik Villar that is paired with local wines. A chef is also available to prepare a private dinner in guest lodges. The bathhouse spa features soaking pools and offers a full menu of luxurious treatments, such as wine body scrubs, while the fitness center, yoga deck and organized hikes will help you balance out all those calories you’re blissfully consuming.
Spanning 250 wine-country acres, Meadowood Napa Valley is large, but its staff is attentive - from the esteemed resident wine tutor to the guest services manager assigned to each arriving visitor. Enjoy a game of croquet, tennis or golf, or simply lounge by the pool. The suites, cottages and lodges blend classic country style and California sensibilities with their stone fireplaces, skylights, vaulted ceilings, private decks and luxurious bathrooms - not to mention plenty of modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs, DVD/CD players, coffee and tea pots and toasters. The Grill is available for casual dining under the shade of an umbrella, and the restaurant turns out eager-to-please gastronomic delights.
What began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary known as Auberge Du Soleil. This sun-drenched sanctuary is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, plasma TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive Auberge Spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
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Much of the beauty of California’s Wine Country depends on the seasonal growth of the vines. We think the best time to visit is ether when the vines are in full vegetation and the grapes are juicy between May and August, or during harvesting from September to October. All of those rich fall colors such as deep reds and golden hues we associate with Wine Country come to fruition in November, when the leaves are falling off the trees.
Don’t forget about February, because this is when all of the wild mustard flowers bloom. But do forget about December and January, as the trees will be bare and thus the scenery will be less picture-perfect.
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There are essentially two ways to sip your way through northern California’s best wineries: go elbow-to-elbow with the masses at the open (and, for that reason, popular) tasting rooms, or make reservations ahead of time and enjoy a more intimate experience. If spontaneity and meeting new friends are priorities, pick a few big name wineries and use the first tactic; but if private indulgence is key, consider the latter itinerary.
Start in the Stags Leap District, which is known for its cabernet sauvignon, in lower Napa. Make Hartwell vineyards your first stop. You’ll see its formidable iron gate and Cyprus tree-lined driveway from the west side of the Silverado Trail. Private tours and tastings ($45 per person) are available Wednesday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. only. Enjoy cheese, chocolates and generous pours of Hartwell’s library wines, available only at the winery.
About a mile north on the same road, look for a turnoff on the east side that is marked only by several numeric addresses - 6126 should be among them. Follow the road back into the hills and eventually you’ll come upon one of the more unusual architectural masterpieces in the valley. The famed Viennese artist Friedensreich Hundert-wasser designed the whimsical Quixote Winery with the idea that Napa needed a winery that didn’t take itself too seriously. Your private tour ($25 per person) will explain how this brightly colored tile and stucco building - complete with a giant, golden turret - came to be, and includes tastings of Quixote’s signature petite syrah.
At this point, you’ll probably be getting a little hungry. Make Robert Sinskey vineyards your next stop. Known for its organically farmed vines, this winery takes food pairing seriously. Make a reservation ahead of time for the bento box tasting at noon and enjoy a light, four-course lunch paired with seasonal wines.
For an up close view of another Napa Valley architectural gem, continue on the Silverado Trail to the Castello di Amorosa. This 13th century-style Tuscan castle took 14 years to build using hand-chiseled stones sourced locally and in Europe. The details are impressive, such as the thousands of handmade bolts for every door, a working well in the courtyard, Italian murals and a massive 500-year-old fireplace. And then there’s the wine. The best way to enjoy the castello is the extensive VIP tour, which will take you away from the crowds, through the 107 rooms and deep into the caves beneath the castle to explain the winemaking process as well as the castle’s construction. Finish with a private tasting served with a variety of antipasto dishes and fine wines.
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One of Wine Country’s best attributes, besides the wine, is the scenery. And it won’t cost you a penny you enjoy it. Take a picnic to the Paradise Ridge Family Winery and check out the redwood trees at Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and swim in the Lake Sonoma. Sonoma County’s ARTrails and The Robert Ferguson Observatory are free on select dates, and they’re worth the trip as well.
1. Overlooking the Russian River Valley is Paradise Ridge Family Winery, which is the most ideal picnic spot we can think of, and they encourage them. Anytime from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., you can shop at one of the local markets such as Traverso’s and plant yourself in the painting-like setting for the mere cost of your groceries. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations if you’re bringing a group of more than 10.
2. Sonoma County’s ARTrails provides 133 artists with workspaces along Sonoma Valley. For free, you can visit their open studios from October 15th through 16th and 22nd through 23rd. It’s like an outdoor art show, where you witness the artists’ process as well. And what better landscape to walk in, and to use as inspiration if you’re the artist.
3. There’s nothing more fulfilling than soaking in the wonders of the natural world, which is what you’ll be doing at the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. The redwood trees are a sight to behold, as they’re the tallest trees on the planet. There’s a nature trail, places to hike and a designated picnic spot, but don’t try and camp here because it’s not allowed. Pedestrians and cyclists can enjoy nature for free, while cars pay $7 or $8 if you’re a senior or not.
4. The Robert Ferguson Observatory, located in Sonoma County, is open to the public at least twice month. Arrive before 11 p.m., wear warm clothing and use one of the three main pre-set up telescopes to view the clear, beautiful night sky. Docents teach astronomical classes in the evening inside the building if you’re itching to learn more.
5. Sonoma Lake’s 2,700 surface acres of water of 50 miles of shoreline allows for some great boating, fishing, hunting, swimming and hiking, among other things. The lake provides flood control and irrigation for the Sonoma County area, but you’ll only focus on free recreational fun within natural surroundings when you visit.
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It doesn’t matter if you’re a serious wine connoisseur or don’t know the difference between a burgundy and a brut; both types of people populate Napa’s tasting rooms to sniff, swirl and sip their way through this bucolic countryside, before retiring to one of the top-notch restaurants at night for even more wine and mouthwatering cuisine. That’s Napa - and from a purely decadent point of view, it simply can’t be beat.
With more than 200 wineries, Napa is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. You’ll find all the major names in the business here - Mondavi, Krug, Beringer. There are the large estates that look like they were transported from Italy, but there are also the smaller, less grandiose wineries that many visitors love to seek out, and that throw open their doors to guests. On the other hand, a few places keep them tightly shut, sealing in their “cult” status. It’s a large, varied wine country (and not just in terms of soil), with much to see and taste.
Several small towns actually make up what everyone simply refers to as “Napa.” The Napa Valley is about 30 miles long and includes the towns (from north to south) of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and Napa. Each has its particular charm. Calistoga has spas and hideaway hotels; St. Helena is full of shops; Yountville is something of a culinary mecca, lined with exceptional restaurants. Add to this the magnificent beauty of the place, and you’ll want to make trip after trip to this wine capital.
The quieter sister to nearby Napa, Sonoma has plenty of top-notch wineries, luxurious inns and spas, and superlative dining, but without the crowds. The oldest town in the wine region, Sonoma was arranged around the eight-acre plaza like a traditional Mexican village because up until 1846, it was under Mexican rule. On June 14 of that year, a group of settlers rebelled in the so-called “Bear Flag Revolt,” and for a brief 25 days, Sonoma was declared the capital of California. The U.S. government then annexed California, ending Sonoma’s days as the seat of state government. Today, the history of the town is well preserved. City Hall, built in the heart of the plaza in the early 20th century, is still used, and the Franciscan mission San Francisco Solano, dating back to 1823, is open to the public. In addition to the history, Sonoma’s shops and restaurants are well worth the visit. And, of course, there are the famed wineries.
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Even though your kids aren’t of age to enjoy the impeccably crafted wine offered at every turn in Wine Country, you can still bring them; there are some wonderful attractions with the whole family in mind. Visit the original Jelly Belly factory and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, or admire nature at the Petrified Forest, Safari West tour or from afar on the Napa Valley Train.
1. Some 3 million years ago, a volcanic eruption turned a forest of giant redwoods into solid quartz and stone — now called the Petrified Forest. Discovered in 1857, these preserved trees offer insight into geological formations and give visitors a glimpse of a prehistoric world. You can also take a guided meadow walk to learn more about the volcanic activity, among oak, douglas fir, madrone and manzanita trees, wildflowers and views of Mount St. Helena. In 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his visit here in his book, The Silverado Squatters.
2. California is transformed into Africa on the Safari West tour, which includes an authentic safari jeep tour of the wildlife preserve ending in an African-style oasis. Your kids will gawk at 600 animals such as giraffes and zebras on this three-hour long ride in what’s called the Sonoma Serengeti.
3. Hop aboard one of the 1952 Vista Dome vintage railcars on the Napa Valley Train for a 36-mile tour of wineries in five towns including Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena. The train was designed in the 1860s to expose people to Calistoga, and much of the route is the same today. Be sure to check out family fun nights, held twice a month. For the price of a regular dinner package, you can eat an intimate meal in a separate dining car while your kids enjoy games, movies and a kid’s menu in a kids-only train car under supervision.
4. The Jelly Belly factory is located just 20 minutes outside of Napa Valley. Take a free, 40-minute tour to learn about what it takes to create the legendary Jelly Belly bean as well as 150 other sweet treats.
5. Snoopy and the rest of the peanuts gang were conjured up in Sonoma, so it makes sense that the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Snoopy Gallery’s Gift Shop stands there today. Schulz called Sonoma home for forty years, but he opened the museum to showcase his legendary comics turned movies and merchandise in 2002 following the strip’s 50th anniversary. For any kids that are familiar with the loveable beagle and his charming, self-deprecating owner Charlie Brown, this cartoon museum and gift shop will be a special treat.
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Honeymooners or couples just looking for a getaway frequent Wine Country, and it’s easy to see why. We can’t think of anything more romantic than trying dozens of different wines in lush California. Visit the oldest winery in Napa, Beringer, or one of the most all-around fantastic, Rubicon. Stay at the serene Auberge du Soleil, get brunch at Bouchon and check out Ca’ Toga Art Gallery to see Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori’s work.
1. Beringer has welcomed guests since 1934, making it the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. The comprehensive tours include a walk through hand-dug, aging tunnels, as well as informative talks about how wine is made and aged - followed, of course, by wine tasting.
2. If you only take one winery tour with your special someone while visiting Napa, make it Rubicon. The knowledgeable and engaging tour guides will fill you in on how Francis Ford Coppola came to own this winery, and how he brought it full circle. It’s the kind of story that makes movie magic, but this vineyard has no Hollywood flash. While you can easily envision Coppola sitting at one of the outside tables puffing on a cigar, the vineyard, which looks like it was transported from Italy, is where the famous director quietly raised his family outside of the spotlight, and where he and his wife still reside. You may also be surprised by how good the wines are, particularly the Rutherford Edizione Pennino Zinfandel (the label has a picture of Italy and the Statue of Liberty, a homage to Francis’ grandfather) and the Cask cabernet sauvignon, a tribute to the stylized cabernets of the previous owner.
3. This sun-drenched sanctuary of Auberge du Soleil is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. What once began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, flat-screen TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
4. If you can’t get into The French Laundry, try Thomas Keller’s French bistro Bouchon — a more casual but no less romantic substitute. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, the fare is seasonal, but Bouchon maintains a decidedly bistro flavor, right down to the pommes frites, chalkboard specials and newspaper rack by the nickel bar. You can’t go wrong with any of the fresh seafood, and the comfort dishes such as slow-braised pork short ribs and croque madame are especially enjoyable. Desserts include pot de crème and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. Be sure to stop by the next-door Bouchon Bakery because the éclairs and macarons are spectacular. Take a walk after brunch and peruse the shops, galleries, and, of course, the tastings. A stroll in Napa Valley is as quaint and intimate as it gets.
5. See the works of Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori, which include ceramics, tiles, paintings, sculptures and furniture in Neo-Classical and Baroque styles at Ca’ Toga Art Gallery.
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Napa Valley is practically synonymous with wine tastings, and for good reason, too. There are more Napa wineries, vineyards and wine bars than you can shake a stick at. But, we think there’s a lot more to Napa Valley than vino (even though we feel obligated to include wine tastings on our list). Hike up Mount St. Helena, visit Old Faithful Geyser of California and Oxbow Public Market. Top it off with a show at the newly renovated Napa Valley Opera House.
1. Broke, ill and newly married, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned on the slopes of this extinct volcano in 1880. Bring a copy of The Silverado Squatters, Stevenson’s travel memoir describing those two memorable months, and hike to the nearby Silverado Mine. The five-mile hike up Mount St. Helena isn’t easy, but is certainly worth the view from the top; on clear days, you might be able to see Mount Shasta, which is 192 miles away. The trail begins in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and takes you through the forest at first, and then a steep uphill climb over rock, trees and bushes.
2. Another outdoor spectacle worth experiencing is the Old Faithful Geyser of California, one of only three regularly erupting geysers in the world. Nearly every half-hour — for about three minutes each time — a towering plume ascends from the source, unless an earthquake disrupts the geyser’s timing. An underground river boils up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, causing vapor and steam to escape to heights of 60 to 100 feet.
3. You simply can’t come to Wine Country without visiting the numerous wineries and vineyards. You’ll find everything from large wineries with popular tasting rooms to small, by-appointment-only tasting facilities.
4. After a day of vineyard hopping, you’ll no doubt be exhausted — and hungry. If you’re looking for more of a DIY dinner option, head to Oxbow Public Market, a one-stop artisanal food and wine shop located in Napa’s up-and coming Oxbow District. Grab a cup of made-to-order coffee from San Francisco’s own Ritual Coffee Roasters, pick up a bottle of local wine from Oxbow Wine Merchant, grab some fresh-baked bread at The Model Bakery and some house cured meats at The Fatted Calf. You’ll also find an outpost of Gott’s Roadside for burgers and garlic fries, while newly shucked oysters can be found at Hog Island Oyster Company (locals go on Tuesday when they’re $1). For dessert, there’s Kara’s Cupcakes. Whatever you grab, you can be assured it’ll be local, and tasty.
5. The Napa Valley Opera House was built in 1879 as one of the first “respectable” venues west of the Mississippi river. The building went dark in 1914 and was finally renovated and reopened to the public in 2002 after being restored to its former splendor. The show schedule includes everything from jazz and classical concerts to theater and dance productions.
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There are essentially two ways to sip your way through northern California’s best wineries: go elbow-to-elbow with the masses at the open (and, for that reason, popular) tasting rooms, or make reservations ahead of time and enjoy a more intimate experience. If spontaneity and meeting new friends are priorities, pick a few big name wineries and use the first tactic; but if private indulgence is key, consider the latter itinerary.
Start in the Stags Leap District, which is known for its cabernet sauvignon, in lower Napa. Make Hartwell vineyards your first stop. You’ll see its formidable iron gate and Cyprus tree-lined driveway from the west side of the Silverado Trail. Private tours and tastings ($45 per person) are available Wednesday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. only. Enjoy cheese, chocolates and generous pours of Hartwell’s library wines, available only at the winery.
About a mile north on the same road, look for a turnoff on the east side that is marked only by several numeric addresses - 6126 should be among them. Follow the road back into the hills and eventually you’ll come upon one of the more unusual architectural masterpieces in the valley. The famed Viennese artist Friedensreich Hundert-wasser designed the whimsical Quixote Winery with the idea that Napa needed a winery that didn’t take itself too seriously. Your private tour ($25 per person) will explain how this brightly colored tile and stucco building - complete with a giant, golden turret - came to be, and includes tastings of Quixote’s signature petite syrah.
At this point, you’ll probably be getting a little hungry. Make Robert Sinskey vineyards your next stop. Known for its organically farmed vines, this winery takes food pairing seriously. Make a reservation ahead of time for the bento box tasting at noon and enjoy a light, four-course lunch paired with seasonal wines.
For an up close view of another Napa Valley architectural gem, continue on the Silverado Trail to the Castello di Amorosa. This 13th century-style Tuscan castle took 14 years to build using hand-chiseled stones sourced locally and in Europe. The details are impressive, such as the thousands of handmade bolts for every door, a working well in the courtyard, Italian murals and a massive 500-year-old fireplace. And then there’s the wine. The best way to enjoy the castello is the extensive VIP tour, which will take you away from the crowds, through the 107 rooms and deep into the caves beneath the castle to explain the winemaking process as well as the castle’s construction. Finish with a private tasting served with a variety of antipasto dishes and fine wines.
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Typically, you won’t see rain from the middle of May to November. But if you’re staying near the coast, it’s best to bring airy clothes for hot temperatures and layers for when it cools down at nighttime. December and January are undoubtedly the worst months to visit, as they’re cold which means the scenery isn’t nearly as beautiful and some of the area’s restaurants even close during these months. Come summer and fall, however, prepare yourself for temperatures up to 100 degrees.
It’s important to make sure there’s extra room in your suitcase - or to bring an entirely separate empty suitcase - for the wine you’ll inevitably want to take with you. If you decide not to take this route, many of the wineries will ship you the wines that you purchase.
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Much of the beauty of California’s Wine Country depends on the seasonal growth of the vines. We think the best time to visit is ether when the vines are in full vegetation and the grapes are juicy between May and August, or during harvesting from September to October. All of those rich fall colors such as deep reds and golden hues we associate with Wine Country come to fruition in November, when the leaves are falling off the trees.
Don’t forget about February, because this is when all of the wild mustard flowers bloom. But do forget about December and January, as the trees will be bare and thus the scenery will be less picture-perfect.
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It doesn’t matter if you’re a serious wine connoisseur or don’t know the difference between a burgundy and a brut; both types of people populate Napa’s tasting rooms to sniff, swirl and sip their way through this bucolic countryside, before retiring to one of the top-notch restaurants at night for even more wine and mouthwatering cuisine. That’s Napa - and from a purely decadent point of view, it simply can’t be beat.
With more than 200 wineries, Napa is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. You’ll find all the major names in the business here - Mondavi, Krug, Beringer. There are the large estates that look like they were transported from Italy, but there are also the smaller, less grandiose wineries that many visitors love to seek out, and that throw open their doors to guests. On the other hand, a few places keep them tightly shut, sealing in their “cult” status. It’s a large, varied wine country (and not just in terms of soil), with much to see and taste.
Several small towns actually make up what everyone simply refers to as “Napa.” The Napa Valley is about 30 miles long and includes the towns (from north to south) of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and Napa. Each has its particular charm. Calistoga has spas and hideaway hotels; St. Helena is full of shops; Yountville is something of a culinary mecca, lined with exceptional restaurants. Add to this the magnificent beauty of the place, and you’ll want to make trip after trip to this wine capital.
The quieter sister to nearby Napa, Sonoma has plenty of top-notch wineries, luxurious inns and spas, and superlative dining, but without the crowds. The oldest town in the wine region, Sonoma was arranged around the eight-acre plaza like a traditional Mexican village because up until 1846, it was under Mexican rule. On June 14 of that year, a group of settlers rebelled in the so-called “Bear Flag Revolt,” and for a brief 25 days, Sonoma was declared the capital of California. The U.S. government then annexed California, ending Sonoma’s days as the seat of state government. Today, the history of the town is well preserved. City Hall, built in the heart of the plaza in the early 20th century, is still used, and the Franciscan mission San Francisco Solano, dating back to 1823, is open to the public. In addition to the history, Sonoma’s shops and restaurants are well worth the visit. And, of course, there are the famed wineries.
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One of Wine Country’s best attributes, besides the wine, is the scenery. And it won’t cost you a penny you enjoy it. Take a picnic to the Paradise Ridge Family Winery and check out the redwood trees at Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and swim in the Lake Sonoma. Sonoma County’s ARTrails and The Robert Ferguson Observatory are free on select dates, and they’re worth the trip as well.
1. Overlooking the Russian River Valley is Paradise Ridge Family Winery, which is the most ideal picnic spot we can think of, and they encourage them. Anytime from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., you can shop at one of the local markets such as Traverso’s and plant yourself in the painting-like setting for the mere cost of your groceries. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations if you’re bringing a group of more than 10.
2. Sonoma County’s ARTrails provides 133 artists with workspaces along Sonoma Valley. For free, you can visit their open studios from October 15th through 16th and 22nd through 23rd. It’s like an outdoor art show, where you witness the artists’ process as well. And what better landscape to walk in, and to use as inspiration if you’re the artist.
3. There’s nothing more fulfilling than soaking in the wonders of the natural world, which is what you’ll be doing at the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. The redwood trees are a sight to behold, as they’re the tallest trees on the planet. There’s a nature trail, places to hike and a designated picnic spot, but don’t try and camp here because it’s not allowed. Pedestrians and cyclists can enjoy nature for free, while cars pay $7 or $8 if you’re a senior or not.
4. The Robert Ferguson Observatory, located in Sonoma County, is open to the public at least twice month. Arrive before 11 p.m., wear warm clothing and use one of the three main pre-set up telescopes to view the clear, beautiful night sky. Docents teach astronomical classes in the evening inside the building if you’re itching to learn more.
5. Sonoma Lake’s 2,700 surface acres of water of 50 miles of shoreline allows for some great boating, fishing, hunting, swimming and hiking, among other things. The lake provides flood control and irrigation for the Sonoma County area, but you’ll only focus on free recreational fun within natural surroundings when you visit.
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Even though your kids aren’t of age to enjoy the impeccably crafted wine offered at every turn in Wine Country, you can still bring them; there are some wonderful attractions with the whole family in mind. Visit the original Jelly Belly factory and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, or admire nature at the Petrified Forest, Safari West tour or from afar on the Napa Valley Train.
1. Some 3 million years ago, a volcanic eruption turned a forest of giant redwoods into solid quartz and stone — now called the Petrified Forest. Discovered in 1857, these preserved trees offer insight into geological formations and give visitors a glimpse of a prehistoric world. You can also take a guided meadow walk to learn more about the volcanic activity, among oak, douglas fir, madrone and manzanita trees, wildflowers and views of Mount St. Helena. In 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his visit here in his book, The Silverado Squatters.
2. California is transformed into Africa on the Safari West tour, which includes an authentic safari jeep tour of the wildlife preserve ending in an African-style oasis. Your kids will gawk at 600 animals such as giraffes and zebras on this three-hour long ride in what’s called the Sonoma Serengeti.
3. Hop aboard one of the 1952 Vista Dome vintage railcars on the Napa Valley Train for a 36-mile tour of wineries in five towns including Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena. The train was designed in the 1860s to expose people to Calistoga, and much of the route is the same today. Be sure to check out family fun nights, held twice a month. For the price of a regular dinner package, you can eat an intimate meal in a separate dining car while your kids enjoy games, movies and a kid’s menu in a kids-only train car under supervision.
4. The Jelly Belly factory is located just 20 minutes outside of Napa Valley. Take a free, 40-minute tour to learn about what it takes to create the legendary Jelly Belly bean as well as 150 other sweet treats.
5. Snoopy and the rest of the peanuts gang were conjured up in Sonoma, so it makes sense that the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Snoopy Gallery’s Gift Shop stands there today. Schulz called Sonoma home for forty years, but he opened the museum to showcase his legendary comics turned movies and merchandise in 2002 following the strip’s 50th anniversary. For any kids that are familiar with the loveable beagle and his charming, self-deprecating owner Charlie Brown, this cartoon museum and gift shop will be a special treat.
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Napa Valley is practically synonymous with wine tastings, and for good reason, too. There are more Napa wineries, vineyards and wine bars than you can shake a stick at. But, we think there’s a lot more to Napa Valley than vino (even though we feel obligated to include wine tastings on our list). Hike up Mount St. Helena, visit Old Faithful Geyser of California and Oxbow Public Market. Top it off with a show at the newly renovated Napa Valley Opera House.
1. Broke, ill and newly married, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned on the slopes of this extinct volcano in 1880. Bring a copy of The Silverado Squatters, Stevenson’s travel memoir describing those two memorable months, and hike to the nearby Silverado Mine. The five-mile hike up Mount St. Helena isn’t easy, but is certainly worth the view from the top; on clear days, you might be able to see Mount Shasta, which is 192 miles away. The trail begins in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and takes you through the forest at first, and then a steep uphill climb over rock, trees and bushes.
2. Another outdoor spectacle worth experiencing is the Old Faithful Geyser of California, one of only three regularly erupting geysers in the world. Nearly every half-hour — for about three minutes each time — a towering plume ascends from the source, unless an earthquake disrupts the geyser’s timing. An underground river boils up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, causing vapor and steam to escape to heights of 60 to 100 feet.
3. You simply can’t come to Wine Country without visiting the numerous wineries and vineyards. You’ll find everything from large wineries with popular tasting rooms to small, by-appointment-only tasting facilities.
4. After a day of vineyard hopping, you’ll no doubt be exhausted — and hungry. If you’re looking for more of a DIY dinner option, head to Oxbow Public Market, a one-stop artisanal food and wine shop located in Napa’s up-and coming Oxbow District. Grab a cup of made-to-order coffee from San Francisco’s own Ritual Coffee Roasters, pick up a bottle of local wine from Oxbow Wine Merchant, grab some fresh-baked bread at The Model Bakery and some house cured meats at The Fatted Calf. You’ll also find an outpost of Gott’s Roadside for burgers and garlic fries, while newly shucked oysters can be found at Hog Island Oyster Company (locals go on Tuesday when they’re $1). For dessert, there’s Kara’s Cupcakes. Whatever you grab, you can be assured it’ll be local, and tasty.
5. The Napa Valley Opera House was built in 1879 as one of the first “respectable” venues west of the Mississippi river. The building went dark in 1914 and was finally renovated and reopened to the public in 2002 after being restored to its former splendor. The show schedule includes everything from jazz and classical concerts to theater and dance productions.
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Honeymooners or couples just looking for a getaway frequent Wine Country, and it’s easy to see why. We can’t think of anything more romantic than trying dozens of different wines in lush California. Visit the oldest winery in Napa, Beringer, or one of the most all-around fantastic, Rubicon. Stay at the serene Auberge du Soleil, get brunch at Bouchon and check out Ca’ Toga Art Gallery to see Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori’s work.
1. Beringer has welcomed guests since 1934, making it the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. The comprehensive tours include a walk through hand-dug, aging tunnels, as well as informative talks about how wine is made and aged - followed, of course, by wine tasting.
2. If you only take one winery tour with your special someone while visiting Napa, make it Rubicon. The knowledgeable and engaging tour guides will fill you in on how Francis Ford Coppola came to own this winery, and how he brought it full circle. It’s the kind of story that makes movie magic, but this vineyard has no Hollywood flash. While you can easily envision Coppola sitting at one of the outside tables puffing on a cigar, the vineyard, which looks like it was transported from Italy, is where the famous director quietly raised his family outside of the spotlight, and where he and his wife still reside. You may also be surprised by how good the wines are, particularly the Rutherford Edizione Pennino Zinfandel (the label has a picture of Italy and the Statue of Liberty, a homage to Francis’ grandfather) and the Cask cabernet sauvignon, a tribute to the stylized cabernets of the previous owner.
3. This sun-drenched sanctuary of Auberge du Soleil is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. What once began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, flat-screen TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
4. If you can’t get into The French Laundry, try Thomas Keller’s French bistro Bouchon — a more casual but no less romantic substitute. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, the fare is seasonal, but Bouchon maintains a decidedly bistro flavor, right down to the pommes frites, chalkboard specials and newspaper rack by the nickel bar. You can’t go wrong with any of the fresh seafood, and the comfort dishes such as slow-braised pork short ribs and croque madame are especially enjoyable. Desserts include pot de crème and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. Be sure to stop by the next-door Bouchon Bakery because the éclairs and macarons are spectacular. Take a walk after brunch and peruse the shops, galleries, and, of course, the tastings. A stroll in Napa Valley is as quaint and intimate as it gets.
5. See the works of Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori, which include ceramics, tiles, paintings, sculptures and furniture in Neo-Classical and Baroque styles at Ca’ Toga Art Gallery.
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Calistoga Ranch offers a quiet retreat after a day spent exploring local vineyards. Each room is housed in a free-standing lodge, decorated using natural materials with fireplaces, plush beds topped with down duvets and private outdoor showers. The onsite restaurant has a hearty American menu created by chef Erik Villar that is paired with local wines. A chef is also available to prepare a private dinner in guest lodges. The bathhouse spa features soaking pools and offers a full menu of luxurious treatments, such as wine body scrubs, while the fitness center, yoga deck and organized hikes will help you balance out all those calories you’re blissfully consuming.
Spanning 250 wine-country acres, Meadowood Napa Valley is large, but its staff is attentive - from the esteemed resident wine tutor to the guest services manager assigned to each arriving visitor. Enjoy a game of croquet, tennis or golf, or simply lounge by the pool. The suites, cottages and lodges blend classic country style and California sensibilities with their stone fireplaces, skylights, vaulted ceilings, private decks and luxurious bathrooms - not to mention plenty of modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs, DVD/CD players, coffee and tea pots and toasters. The Grill is available for casual dining under the shade of an umbrella, and the restaurant turns out eager-to-please gastronomic delights.
What began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary known as Auberge Du Soleil. This sun-drenched sanctuary is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, plasma TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive Auberge Spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
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Wine Country has what it takes to be one of the most romantic getaways in the U.S.: breathtaking views of hills and valleys, seemingly endless wine lists and spectacular fine dining. In fact, many eateries have all three. In St. Helena, there’s The Restaurant at Meadowood and Terra; Auberge Du Soleil in Rutherford; Cyrus in Healdsburg; and The French Laundry in Yountville.
1. Remaining true to Meadowood’s natural, serene setting, The Restaurant at Meadowood, concentrates on the purity of regional flavors, using several ingredients from the resort’s onsite garden. The result is a menu replete with fresh, delectable choices. From the extensive list of 1,100 wines, sommelier Rom Toulon assists in pairing varietals to fully complement the essence of each dish. A modern dining room with stone fireplaces, white wainscoting and rows of windows revealing the beautiful grounds adds to the magical experience.
2. Chef and owner Hiro Sone has been wowing diners at Terra, his cozy, intimate Napa Valley restaurant, since 1988. Set one block off the main drag on Railroad Avenue in St. Helena, Terra is located in a charming, old stone building, rustically finished with vintage red-tiled floors, exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings. The food is spectacular — a successful blend of flavors from Italy, France and Asia. With gracious hospitality and warmth, the staff at Terra makes you feel like you’re dining at home.
3. French-born San Francisco restaurateur Claude Rouas set out to create a Provence-like destination restaurant in northern California when he opened Auberge du Soleil in 1981. Diners liked it so much they demanded overnight accommodations — and received them four years later. The seasonal French-California menu features artisanal ingredients and products from local farms. If you’re touring the valley by car, consider a lunch stop where you can enjoy the views from the terrace.
4. Where better to indulge in life’s luxuries than at Cyrus, an elegant wine country eatery located off the lobby of the grand Les Mars Hotel? Leather banquettes, a cloister ceiling and a plethora of freshly cut flowers are just some of the intimate touches that make an evening at Cyrus a sybaritic affair. The prix fixe menu of three, four or five courses changes daily, but often includes such scrumptious dishes as roasted porcini risotto and rabbit ballotine, and a terrine of foie gras with rhubarb and sassafrass. The wine list of more than 600-bottles offers a perfect accompaniment to any dish.
5. At this former French steam laundry, chef Thomas Keller has raised the standard for fine dining in America with his restaurant, The French Laundry. While the country locale — a circa-1900 rock and timber cottage — makes you feel at home, tables topped with Limoges china, crystal stemware and floor-length linens, set the tone for the nine-course French or vegetarian tasting menus that change daily but always rely on seasonal produce and organic meats. Reservations are taken two months in advance, so be prepared if you’re hoping to snag a table at this perennially outstanding American classic.
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There are essentially two ways to sip your way through northern California’s best wineries: go elbow-to-elbow with the masses at the open (and, for that reason, popular) tasting rooms, or make reservations ahead of time and enjoy a more intimate experience. If spontaneity and meeting new friends are priorities, pick a few big name wineries and use the first tactic; but if private indulgence is key, consider the latter itinerary.
Start in the Stags Leap District, which is known for its cabernet sauvignon, in lower Napa. Make Hartwell vineyards your first stop. You’ll see its formidable iron gate and Cyprus tree-lined driveway from the west side of the Silverado Trail. Private tours and tastings ($45 per person) are available Wednesday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. only. Enjoy cheese, chocolates and generous pours of Hartwell’s library wines, available only at the winery.
About a mile north on the same road, look for a turnoff on the east side that is marked only by several numeric addresses - 6126 should be among them. Follow the road back into the hills and eventually you’ll come upon one of the more unusual architectural masterpieces in the valley. The famed Viennese artist Friedensreich Hundert-wasser designed the whimsical Quixote Winery with the idea that Napa needed a winery that didn’t take itself too seriously. Your private tour ($25 per person) will explain how this brightly colored tile and stucco building - complete with a giant, golden turret - came to be, and includes tastings of Quixote’s signature petite syrah.
At this point, you’ll probably be getting a little hungry. Make Robert Sinskey vineyards your next stop. Known for its organically farmed vines, this winery takes food pairing seriously. Make a reservation ahead of time for the bento box tasting at noon and enjoy a light, four-course lunch paired with seasonal wines.
For an up close view of another Napa Valley architectural gem, continue on the Silverado Trail to the Castello di Amorosa. This 13th century-style Tuscan castle took 14 years to build using hand-chiseled stones sourced locally and in Europe. The details are impressive, such as the thousands of handmade bolts for every door, a working well in the courtyard, Italian murals and a massive 500-year-old fireplace. And then there’s the wine. The best way to enjoy the castello is the extensive VIP tour, which will take you away from the crowds, through the 107 rooms and deep into the caves beneath the castle to explain the winemaking process as well as the castle’s construction. Finish with a private tasting served with a variety of antipasto dishes and fine wines.
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Much of the beauty of California’s Wine Country depends on the seasonal growth of the vines. We think the best time to visit is ether when the vines are in full vegetation and the grapes are juicy between May and August, or during harvesting from September to October. All of those rich fall colors such as deep reds and golden hues we associate with Wine Country come to fruition in November, when the leaves are falling off the trees.
Don’t forget about February, because this is when all of the wild mustard flowers bloom. But do forget about December and January, as the trees will be bare and thus the scenery will be less picture-perfect.
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Typically, you won’t see rain from the middle of May to November. But if you’re staying near the coast, it’s best to bring airy clothes for hot temperatures and layers for when it cools down at nighttime. December and January are undoubtedly the worst months to visit, as they’re cold which means the scenery isn’t nearly as beautiful and some of the area’s restaurants even close during these months. Come summer and fall, however, prepare yourself for temperatures up to 100 degrees.
It’s important to make sure there’s extra room in your suitcase - or to bring an entirely separate empty suitcase - for the wine you’ll inevitably want to take with you. If you decide not to take this route, many of the wineries will ship you the wines that you purchase.
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It doesn’t matter if you’re a serious wine connoisseur or don’t know the difference between a burgundy and a brut; both types of people populate Napa’s tasting rooms to sniff, swirl and sip their way through this bucolic countryside, before retiring to one of the top-notch restaurants at night for even more wine and mouthwatering cuisine. That’s Napa - and from a purely decadent point of view, it simply can’t be beat.
With more than 200 wineries, Napa is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. You’ll find all the major names in the business here - Mondavi, Krug, Beringer. There are the large estates that look like they were transported from Italy, but there are also the smaller, less grandiose wineries that many visitors love to seek out, and that throw open their doors to guests. On the other hand, a few places keep them tightly shut, sealing in their “cult” status. It’s a large, varied wine country (and not just in terms of soil), with much to see and taste.
Several small towns actually make up what everyone simply refers to as “Napa.” The Napa Valley is about 30 miles long and includes the towns (from north to south) of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and Napa. Each has its particular charm. Calistoga has spas and hideaway hotels; St. Helena is full of shops; Yountville is something of a culinary mecca, lined with exceptional restaurants. Add to this the magnificent beauty of the place, and you’ll want to make trip after trip to this wine capital.
The quieter sister to nearby Napa, Sonoma has plenty of top-notch wineries, luxurious inns and spas, and superlative dining, but without the crowds. The oldest town in the wine region, Sonoma was arranged around the eight-acre plaza like a traditional Mexican village because up until 1846, it was under Mexican rule. On June 14 of that year, a group of settlers rebelled in the so-called “Bear Flag Revolt,” and for a brief 25 days, Sonoma was declared the capital of California. The U.S. government then annexed California, ending Sonoma’s days as the seat of state government. Today, the history of the town is well preserved. City Hall, built in the heart of the plaza in the early 20th century, is still used, and the Franciscan mission San Francisco Solano, dating back to 1823, is open to the public. In addition to the history, Sonoma’s shops and restaurants are well worth the visit. And, of course, there are the famed wineries.
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Honeymooners or couples just looking for a getaway frequent Wine Country, and it’s easy to see why. We can’t think of anything more romantic than trying dozens of different wines in lush California. Visit the oldest winery in Napa, Beringer, or one of the most all-around fantastic, Rubicon. Stay at the serene Auberge du Soleil, get brunch at Bouchon and check out Ca’ Toga Art Gallery to see Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori’s work.
1. Beringer has welcomed guests since 1934, making it the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. The comprehensive tours include a walk through hand-dug, aging tunnels, as well as informative talks about how wine is made and aged - followed, of course, by wine tasting.
2. If you only take one winery tour with your special someone while visiting Napa, make it Rubicon. The knowledgeable and engaging tour guides will fill you in on how Francis Ford Coppola came to own this winery, and how he brought it full circle. It’s the kind of story that makes movie magic, but this vineyard has no Hollywood flash. While you can easily envision Coppola sitting at one of the outside tables puffing on a cigar, the vineyard, which looks like it was transported from Italy, is where the famous director quietly raised his family outside of the spotlight, and where he and his wife still reside. You may also be surprised by how good the wines are, particularly the Rutherford Edizione Pennino Zinfandel (the label has a picture of Italy and the Statue of Liberty, a homage to Francis’ grandfather) and the Cask cabernet sauvignon, a tribute to the stylized cabernets of the previous owner.
3. This sun-drenched sanctuary of Auberge du Soleil is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. What once began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, flat-screen TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
4. If you can’t get into The French Laundry, try Thomas Keller’s French bistro Bouchon — a more casual but no less romantic substitute. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, the fare is seasonal, but Bouchon maintains a decidedly bistro flavor, right down to the pommes frites, chalkboard specials and newspaper rack by the nickel bar. You can’t go wrong with any of the fresh seafood, and the comfort dishes such as slow-braised pork short ribs and croque madame are especially enjoyable. Desserts include pot de crème and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. Be sure to stop by the next-door Bouchon Bakery because the éclairs and macarons are spectacular. Take a walk after brunch and peruse the shops, galleries, and, of course, the tastings. A stroll in Napa Valley is as quaint and intimate as it gets.
5. See the works of Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori, which include ceramics, tiles, paintings, sculptures and furniture in Neo-Classical and Baroque styles at Ca’ Toga Art Gallery.
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Even though your kids aren’t of age to enjoy the impeccably crafted wine offered at every turn in Wine Country, you can still bring them; there are some wonderful attractions with the whole family in mind. Visit the original Jelly Belly factory and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, or admire nature at the Petrified Forest, Safari West tour or from afar on the Napa Valley Train.
1. Some 3 million years ago, a volcanic eruption turned a forest of giant redwoods into solid quartz and stone — now called the Petrified Forest. Discovered in 1857, these preserved trees offer insight into geological formations and give visitors a glimpse of a prehistoric world. You can also take a guided meadow walk to learn more about the volcanic activity, among oak, douglas fir, madrone and manzanita trees, wildflowers and views of Mount St. Helena. In 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his visit here in his book, The Silverado Squatters.
2. California is transformed into Africa on the Safari West tour, which includes an authentic safari jeep tour of the wildlife preserve ending in an African-style oasis. Your kids will gawk at 600 animals such as giraffes and zebras on this three-hour long ride in what’s called the Sonoma Serengeti.
3. Hop aboard one of the 1952 Vista Dome vintage railcars on the Napa Valley Train for a 36-mile tour of wineries in five towns including Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena. The train was designed in the 1860s to expose people to Calistoga, and much of the route is the same today. Be sure to check out family fun nights, held twice a month. For the price of a regular dinner package, you can eat an intimate meal in a separate dining car while your kids enjoy games, movies and a kid’s menu in a kids-only train car under supervision.
4. The Jelly Belly factory is located just 20 minutes outside of Napa Valley. Take a free, 40-minute tour to learn about what it takes to create the legendary Jelly Belly bean as well as 150 other sweet treats.
5. Snoopy and the rest of the peanuts gang were conjured up in Sonoma, so it makes sense that the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Snoopy Gallery’s Gift Shop stands there today. Schulz called Sonoma home for forty years, but he opened the museum to showcase his legendary comics turned movies and merchandise in 2002 following the strip’s 50th anniversary. For any kids that are familiar with the loveable beagle and his charming, self-deprecating owner Charlie Brown, this cartoon museum and gift shop will be a special treat.
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One of Wine Country’s best attributes, besides the wine, is the scenery. And it won’t cost you a penny you enjoy it. Take a picnic to the Paradise Ridge Family Winery and check out the redwood trees at Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and swim in the Lake Sonoma. Sonoma County’s ARTrails and The Robert Ferguson Observatory are free on select dates, and they’re worth the trip as well.
1. Overlooking the Russian River Valley is Paradise Ridge Family Winery, which is the most ideal picnic spot we can think of, and they encourage them. Anytime from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., you can shop at one of the local markets such as Traverso’s and plant yourself in the painting-like setting for the mere cost of your groceries. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations if you’re bringing a group of more than 10.
2. Sonoma County’s ARTrails provides 133 artists with workspaces along Sonoma Valley. For free, you can visit their open studios from October 15th through 16th and 22nd through 23rd. It’s like an outdoor art show, where you witness the artists’ process as well. And what better landscape to walk in, and to use as inspiration if you’re the artist.
3. There’s nothing more fulfilling than soaking in the wonders of the natural world, which is what you’ll be doing at the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. The redwood trees are a sight to behold, as they’re the tallest trees on the planet. There’s a nature trail, places to hike and a designated picnic spot, but don’t try and camp here because it’s not allowed. Pedestrians and cyclists can enjoy nature for free, while cars pay $7 or $8 if you’re a senior or not.
4. The Robert Ferguson Observatory, located in Sonoma County, is open to the public at least twice month. Arrive before 11 p.m., wear warm clothing and use one of the three main pre-set up telescopes to view the clear, beautiful night sky. Docents teach astronomical classes in the evening inside the building if you’re itching to learn more.
5. Sonoma Lake’s 2,700 surface acres of water of 50 miles of shoreline allows for some great boating, fishing, hunting, swimming and hiking, among other things. The lake provides flood control and irrigation for the Sonoma County area, but you’ll only focus on free recreational fun within natural surroundings when you visit.
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Napa Valley is practically synonymous with wine tastings, and for good reason, too. There are more Napa wineries, vineyards and wine bars than you can shake a stick at. But, we think there’s a lot more to Napa Valley than vino (even though we feel obligated to include wine tastings on our list). Hike up Mount St. Helena, visit Old Faithful Geyser of California and Oxbow Public Market. Top it off with a show at the newly renovated Napa Valley Opera House.
1. Broke, ill and newly married, Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson honeymooned on the slopes of this extinct volcano in 1880. Bring a copy of The Silverado Squatters, Stevenson’s travel memoir describing those two memorable months, and hike to the nearby Silverado Mine. The five-mile hike up Mount St. Helena isn’t easy, but is certainly worth the view from the top; on clear days, you might be able to see Mount Shasta, which is 192 miles away. The trail begins in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and takes you through the forest at first, and then a steep uphill climb over rock, trees and bushes.
2. Another outdoor spectacle worth experiencing is the Old Faithful Geyser of California, one of only three regularly erupting geysers in the world. Nearly every half-hour — for about three minutes each time — a towering plume ascends from the source, unless an earthquake disrupts the geyser’s timing. An underground river boils up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, causing vapor and steam to escape to heights of 60 to 100 feet.
3. You simply can’t come to Wine Country without visiting the numerous wineries and vineyards. You’ll find everything from large wineries with popular tasting rooms to small, by-appointment-only tasting facilities.
4. After a day of vineyard hopping, you’ll no doubt be exhausted — and hungry. If you’re looking for more of a DIY dinner option, head to Oxbow Public Market, a one-stop artisanal food and wine shop located in Napa’s up-and coming Oxbow District. Grab a cup of made-to-order coffee from San Francisco’s own Ritual Coffee Roasters, pick up a bottle of local wine from Oxbow Wine Merchant, grab some fresh-baked bread at The Model Bakery and some house cured meats at The Fatted Calf. You’ll also find an outpost of Gott’s Roadside for burgers and garlic fries, while newly shucked oysters can be found at Hog Island Oyster Company (locals go on Tuesday when they’re $1). For dessert, there’s Kara’s Cupcakes. Whatever you grab, you can be assured it’ll be local, and tasty.
5. The Napa Valley Opera House was built in 1879 as one of the first “respectable” venues west of the Mississippi river. The building went dark in 1914 and was finally renovated and reopened to the public in 2002 after being restored to its former splendor. The show schedule includes everything from jazz and classical concerts to theater and dance productions.
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Even though your kids aren’t of age to enjoy the impeccably crafted wine offered at every turn in Wine Country, you can still bring them; there are some wonderful attractions with the whole family in mind. Visit the original Jelly Belly factory and the Charles M. Schulz Museum, or admire nature at the Petrified Forest, Safari West tour or from afar on the Napa Valley Train.
1. Some 3 million years ago, a volcanic eruption turned a forest of giant redwoods into solid quartz and stone — now called the Petrified Forest. Discovered in 1857, these preserved trees offer insight into geological formations and give visitors a glimpse of a prehistoric world. You can also take a guided meadow walk to learn more about the volcanic activity, among oak, douglas fir, madrone and manzanita trees, wildflowers and views of Mount St. Helena. In 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his visit here in his book, The Silverado Squatters.
2. California is transformed into Africa on the Safari West tour, which includes an authentic safari jeep tour of the wildlife preserve ending in an African-style oasis. Your kids will gawk at 600 animals such as giraffes and zebras on this three-hour long ride in what’s called the Sonoma Serengeti.
3. Hop aboard one of the 1952 Vista Dome vintage railcars on the Napa Valley Train for a 36-mile tour of wineries in five towns including Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena. The train was designed in the 1860s to expose people to Calistoga, and much of the route is the same today. Be sure to check out family fun nights, held twice a month. For the price of a regular dinner package, you can eat an intimate meal in a separate dining car while your kids enjoy games, movies and a kid’s menu in a kids-only train car under supervision.
4. The Jelly Belly factory is located just 20 minutes outside of Napa Valley. Take a free, 40-minute tour to learn about what it takes to create the legendary Jelly Belly bean as well as 150 other sweet treats.
5. Snoopy and the rest of the peanuts gang were conjured up in Sonoma, so it makes sense that the Charles M. Schulz Museum and Snoopy Gallery’s Gift Shop stands there today. Schulz called Sonoma home for forty years, but he opened the museum to showcase his legendary comics turned movies and merchandise in 2002 following the strip’s 50th anniversary. For any kids that are familiar with the loveable beagle and his charming, self-deprecating owner Charlie Brown, this cartoon museum and gift shop will be a special treat. -
Honeymooners or couples just looking for a getaway frequent Wine Country, and it’s easy to see why. We can’t think of anything more romantic than trying dozens of different wines in lush California. Visit the oldest winery in Napa, Beringer, or one of the most all-around fantastic, Rubicon. Stay at the serene Auberge du Soleil, get brunch at Bouchon and check out Ca’ Toga Art Gallery to see Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori’s work.
1. Beringer has welcomed guests since 1934, making it the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. The comprehensive tours include a walk through hand-dug, aging tunnels, as well as informative talks about how wine is made and aged - followed, of course, by wine tasting.
2. If you only take one winery tour with your special someone while visiting Napa, make it Rubicon. The knowledgeable and engaging tour guides will fill you in on how Francis Ford Coppola came to own this winery, and how he brought it full circle. It’s the kind of story that makes movie magic, but this vineyard has no Hollywood flash. While you can easily envision Coppola sitting at one of the outside tables puffing on a cigar, the vineyard, which looks like it was transported from Italy, is where the famous director quietly raised his family outside of the spotlight, and where he and his wife still reside. You may also be surprised by how good the wines are, particularly the Rutherford Edizione Pennino Zinfandel (the label has a picture of Italy and the Statue of Liberty, a homage to Francis’ grandfather) and the Cask cabernet sauvignon, a tribute to the stylized cabernets of the previous owner.
3. This sun-drenched sanctuary of Auberge du Soleil is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. What once began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, flat-screen TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy.
4. If you can’t get into The French Laundry, try Thomas Keller’s French bistro Bouchon — a more casual but no less romantic substitute. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, the fare is seasonal, but Bouchon maintains a decidedly bistro flavor, right down to the pommes frites, chalkboard specials and newspaper rack by the nickel bar. You can’t go wrong with any of the fresh seafood, and the comfort dishes such as slow-braised pork short ribs and croque madame are especially enjoyable. Desserts include pot de crème and profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce. Be sure to stop by the next-door Bouchon Bakery because the éclairs and macarons are spectacular. Take a walk after brunch and peruse the shops, galleries, and, of course, the tastings. A stroll in Napa Valley is as quaint and intimate as it gets.
5. See the works of Italian muralist Carlo Marchiori, which include ceramics, tiles, paintings, sculptures and furniture in Neo-Classical and Baroque styles at Ca’ Toga Art Gallery. -
One of Wine Country’s best attributes, besides the wine, is the scenery. And it won’t cost you a penny you enjoy it. Take a picnic to the Paradise Ridge Family Winery and check out the redwood trees at Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve and swim in the Lake Sonoma. Sonoma County’s ARTrails and The Robert Ferguson Observatory are free on select dates, and they’re worth the trip as well.
1. Overlooking the Russian River Valley is Paradise Ridge Family Winery, which is the most ideal picnic spot we can think of, and they encourage them. Anytime from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., you can shop at one of the local markets such as Traverso’s and plant yourself in the painting-like setting for the mere cost of your groceries. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations if you’re bringing a group of more than 10.
2. Sonoma County’s ARTrails provides 133 artists with workspaces along Sonoma Valley. For free, you can visit their open studios from October 15th through 16th and 22nd through 23rd. It’s like an outdoor art show, where you witness the artists’ process as well. And what better landscape to walk in, and to use as inspiration if you’re the artist.
3. There’s nothing more fulfilling than soaking in the wonders of the natural world, which is what you’ll be doing at the Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. The redwood trees are a sight to behold, as they’re the tallest trees on the planet. There’s a nature trail, places to hike and a designated picnic spot, but don’t try and camp here because it’s not allowed. Pedestrians and cyclists can enjoy nature for free, while cars pay $7 or $8 if you’re a senior or not.
4. The Robert Ferguson Observatory, located in Sonoma County, is open to the public at least twice month. Arrive before 11 p.m., wear warm clothing and use one of the three main pre-set up telescopes to view the clear, beautiful night sky. Docents teach astronomical classes in the evening inside the building if you’re itching to learn more.
5. Sonoma Lake’s 2,700 surface acres of water of 50 miles of shoreline allows for some great boating, fishing, hunting, swimming and hiking, among other things. The lake provides flood control and irrigation for the Sonoma County area, but you’ll only focus on free recreational fun within natural surroundings when you visit. -
It doesn’t matter if you’re a serious wine connoisseur or don’t know the difference between a burgundy and a brut; both types of people populate Napa’s tasting rooms to sniff, swirl and sip their way through this bucolic countryside, before retiring to one of the top-notch restaurants at night for even more wine and mouthwatering cuisine. That’s Napa - and from a purely decadent point of view, it simply can’t be beat.
With more than 200 wineries, Napa is one of the most famous wine regions in the world. You’ll find all the major names in the business here - Mondavi, Krug, Beringer. There are the large estates that look like they were transported from Italy, but there are also the smaller, less grandiose wineries that many visitors love to seek out, and that throw open their doors to guests. On the other hand, a few places keep them tightly shut, sealing in their “cult” status. It’s a large, varied wine country (and not just in terms of soil), with much to see and taste.
Several small towns actually make up what everyone simply refers to as “Napa.” The Napa Valley is about 30 miles long and includes the towns (from north to south) of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and Napa. Each has its particular charm. Calistoga has spas and hideaway hotels; St. Helena is full of shops; Yountville is something of a culinary mecca, lined with exceptional restaurants. Add to this the magnificent beauty of the place, and you’ll want to make trip after trip to this wine capital.
The quieter sister to nearby Napa, Sonoma has plenty of top-notch wineries, luxurious inns and spas, and superlative dining, but without the crowds. The oldest town in the wine region, Sonoma was arranged around the eight-acre plaza like a traditional Mexican village because up until 1846, it was under Mexican rule. On June 14 of that year, a group of settlers rebelled in the so-called “Bear Flag Revolt,” and for a brief 25 days, Sonoma was declared the capital of California. The U.S. government then annexed California, ending Sonoma’s days as the seat of state government. Today, the history of the town is well preserved. City Hall, built in the heart of the plaza in the early 20th century, is still used, and the Franciscan mission San Francisco Solano, dating back to 1823, is open to the public. In addition to the history, Sonoma’s shops and restaurants are well worth the visit. And, of course, there are the famed wineries. -
Much of the beauty of California’s Wine Country depends on the seasonal growth of the vines. We think the best time to visit is ether when the vines are in full vegetation and the grapes are juicy between May and August, or during harvesting from September to October. All of those rich fall colors such as deep reds and golden hues we associate with Wine Country come to fruition in November, when the leaves are falling off the trees.
Don’t forget about February, because this is when all of the wild mustard flowers bloom. But do forget about December and January, as the trees will be bare and thus the scenery will be less picture-perfect. -
There are essentially two ways to sip your way through northern California’s best wineries: go elbow-to-elbow with the masses at the open (and, for that reason, popular) tasting rooms, or make reservations ahead of time and enjoy a more intimate experience. If spontaneity and meeting new friends are priorities, pick a few big name wineries and use the first tactic; but if private indulgence is key, consider the latter itinerary.
Start in the Stags Leap District, which is known for its cabernet sauvignon, in lower Napa. Make Hartwell vineyards your first stop. You’ll see its formidable iron gate and Cyprus tree-lined driveway from the west side of the Silverado Trail. Private tours and tastings ($45 per person) are available Wednesday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. only. Enjoy cheese, chocolates and generous pours of Hartwell’s library wines, available only at the winery.
About a mile north on the same road, look for a turnoff on the east side that is marked only by several numeric addresses - 6126 should be among them. Follow the road back into the hills and eventually you’ll come upon one of the more unusual architectural masterpieces in the valley. The famed Viennese artist Friedensreich Hundert-wasser designed the whimsical Quixote Winery with the idea that Napa needed a winery that didn’t take itself too seriously. Your private tour ($25 per person) will explain how this brightly colored tile and stucco building - complete with a giant, golden turret - came to be, and includes tastings of Quixote’s signature petite syrah.
At this point, you’ll probably be getting a little hungry. Make Robert Sinskey vineyards your next stop. Known for its organically farmed vines, this winery takes food pairing seriously. Make a reservation ahead of time for the bento box tasting at noon and enjoy a light, four-course lunch paired with seasonal wines.
For an up close view of another Napa Valley architectural gem, continue on the Silverado Trail to the Castello di Amorosa. This 13th century-style Tuscan castle took 14 years to build using hand-chiseled stones sourced locally and in Europe. The details are impressive, such as the thousands of handmade bolts for every door, a working well in the courtyard, Italian murals and a massive 500-year-old fireplace. And then there’s the wine. The best way to enjoy the castello is the extensive VIP tour, which will take you away from the crowds, through the 107 rooms and deep into the caves beneath the castle to explain the winemaking process as well as the castle’s construction. Finish with a private tasting served with a variety of antipasto dishes and fine wines. -
Typically, you won’t see rain from the middle of May to November. But if you’re staying near the coast, it’s best to bring airy clothes for hot temperatures and layers for when it cools down at nighttime. December and January are undoubtedly the worst months to visit, as they’re cold which means the scenery isn’t nearly as beautiful and some of the area’s restaurants even close during these months. Come summer and fall, however, prepare yourself for temperatures up to 100 degrees.
It’s important to make sure there’s extra room in your suitcase - or to bring an entirely separate empty suitcase - for the wine you’ll inevitably want to take with you. If you decide not to take this route, many of the wineries will ship you the wines that you purchase. -
Calistoga Ranch offers a quiet retreat after a day spent exploring local vineyards. Each room is housed in a free-standing lodge, decorated using natural materials with fireplaces, plush beds topped with down duvets and private outdoor showers. The onsite restaurant has a hearty American menu created by chef Erik Villar that is paired with local wines. A chef is also available to prepare a private dinner in guest lodges. The bathhouse spa features soaking pools and offers a full menu of luxurious treatments, such as wine body scrubs, while the fitness center, yoga deck and organized hikes will help you balance out all those calories you’re blissfully consuming.
Spanning 250 wine-country acres, Meadowood Napa Valley is large, but its staff is attentive - from the esteemed resident wine tutor to the guest services manager assigned to each arriving visitor. Enjoy a game of croquet, tennis or golf, or simply lounge by the pool. The suites, cottages and lodges blend classic country style and California sensibilities with their stone fireplaces, skylights, vaulted ceilings, private decks and luxurious bathrooms - not to mention plenty of modern amenities such as flat-screen TVs, DVD/CD players, coffee and tea pots and toasters. The Grill is available for casual dining under the shade of an umbrella, and the restaurant turns out eager-to-please gastronomic delights.
What began as simply a Provence-inspired restaurant in 1981 is now a full-fledged sanctuary known as Auberge Du Soleil. This sun-drenched sanctuary is perched on a quiet, 33-acre hillside olive grove in Rutherford. Luxurious touches include Italian linens, plasma TVs, wet bars with stocked refrigerators (full-sized in suites), espresso machines, large soaking tubs, CD players with a choice of CDs, wine, daily fresh fruit and a personal welcome note. Be sure to visit the exclusive Auberge Spa featuring Meyer lemon olive oil massages, among other treats, and the indulgent private Melisse Suite. The accommodations portion of the resort was recently gated to ensure maximum privacy. -
Wine Country has what it takes to be one of the most romantic getaways in the U.S.: breathtaking views of hills and valleys, seemingly endless wine lists and spectacular fine dining. In fact, many eateries have all three. In St. Helena, there’s The Restaurant at Meadowood and Terra; Auberge Du Soleil in Rutherford; Cyrus in Healdsburg; and The French Laundry in Yountville.
1. Remaining true to Meadowood’s natural, serene setting, The Restaurant at Meadowood, concentrates on the purity of regional flavors, using several ingredients from the resort’s onsite garden. The result is a menu replete with fresh, delectable choices. From the extensive list of 1,100 wines, sommelier Rom Toulon assists in pairing varietals to fully complement the essence of each dish. A modern dining room with stone fireplaces, white wainscoting and rows of windows revealing the beautiful grounds adds to the magical experience.
2. Chef and owner Hiro Sone has been wowing diners at Terra, his cozy, intimate Napa Valley restaurant, since 1988. Set one block off the main drag on Railroad Avenue in St. Helena, Terra is located in a charming, old stone building, rustically finished with vintage red-tiled floors, exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings. The food is spectacular — a successful blend of flavors from Italy, France and Asia. With gracious hospitality and warmth, the staff at Terra makes you feel like you’re dining at home.
3. French-born San Francisco restaurateur Claude Rouas set out to create a Provence-like destination restaurant in northern California when he opened Auberge du Soleil in 1981. Diners liked it so much they demanded overnight accommodations — and received them four years later. The seasonal French-California menu features artisanal ingredients and products from local farms. If you’re touring the valley by car, consider a lunch stop where you can enjoy the views from the terrace.
4. Where better to indulge in life’s luxuries than at Cyrus, an elegant wine country eatery located off the lobby of the grand Les Mars Hotel? Leather banquettes, a cloister ceiling and a plethora of freshly cut flowers are just some of the intimate touches that make an evening at Cyrus a sybaritic affair. The prix fixe menu of three, four or five courses changes daily, but often includes such scrumptious dishes as roasted porcini risotto and rabbit ballotine, and a terrine of foie gras with rhubarb and sassafrass. The wine list of more than 600-bottles offers a perfect accompaniment to any dish.
5. At this former French steam laundry, chef Thomas Keller has raised the standard for fine dining in America with his restaurant, The French Laundry. While the country locale — a circa-1900 rock and timber cottage — makes you feel at home, tables topped with Limoges china, crystal stemware and floor-length linens, set the tone for the nine-course French or vegetarian tasting menus that change daily but always rely on seasonal produce and organic meats. Reservations are taken two months in advance, so be prepared if you’re hoping to snag a table at this perennially outstanding American classic.







